Ancient drought resistant winegrape instilling hope for struggling farmers

Xynisteri winegrapes have reduced Yianni Koutouzis's water consumption by 75 per cent. (ABC Riverland: Amelia Walters) An Australian researcher has introduced the Cypriot white winegrape known as Xynisteri to Australia for the first time. It is reducing growers' water consumption by 75 per cent and withstanding heatwave events above 45 degrees Celsius. Barossa Valley producers have almost sold out of their first vintage, while Riverland growers will bottle for the first time in the coming months. Link copiedShareShare articleNestled in an unassuming vineyard in South Australia's Riverland, an ancient winegrape variety is about to be harvested for the first time. It is not only reducing water bills, but reconnecting growers to their Mediterranean roots. Yianni Koutouzis is choosing to be the "black sheep" of Australia's largest grape-growing wine region, by trialling the ancient Cypriot variety known as Xynisteri. It is a crop famous for its thick skin and drought tolerance — resistant to heatwaves, pests and low-rainfall conditions. The Xynisteri crop survived the Riverland's 49-degree Celsius heatwave in January with little to no burning. (ABC Riverland: Amelia Walters) For a region that has recorded three consecutive years of below-average rainfall and record-breaking heatwave events, the drought-tolerant variety has come at the perfect time. Unlike Mr Koutouzis's other crops, which need watering every two days, his 800 vines of Xynisteri – planted three years ago – can go months without being watered. "I have my brother and mum saying, 'Why aren't you watering your vines?' and I'm like, 'We don't need to,'" he said. Yianni Koutouzis says the grapes are resilient, just like Riverland farmers. (ABC Riverland: Amelia Walters) With more than 50 years of farming history in his family, it is the first time Mr Koutouzis is growing a crop that connects him to his Greek ancestors. In pot trials, Xynisteri's root structure was found to be three to four times the size of shiraz. (ABC Riverland: Amelia Walters) "It's a surreal feeling to be able to connect not just to the variety, but also to my family ... making wine the way my grandfather and grandmother used to back in the Peloponnese in Greece," he said. Yianni's family has been farming in the Riverland for more than 50 years. (ABC Riverland: Amelia Walters) While Mr Koutouzis prepares to bottle his crop for the first time, the variety is also offering an alternative to an industry in crisis at a time when Australia's climate continues to change. With more than 5,500 years of history, Xynisteri (pronounced zin-uh-steh-ree) originates from Cyprus and was first introduced to Australia in 2018 by researcher Dr Alexander Copper. Dr Alexander Copper says we need to "open our eyes and open our minds" to find international varieties that suit our regions. (ABC Riverland: Amelia Walters) After spending multiple years overseas during wine production as well as investigating eastern Mediterranean winegrape varieties that could suit Australia's warming and changing climate, Xynisteri was earmarked as a stand-out variety for South Australian soil. "We tried to grow it in McLaren Vale but it didn't like the cold ... but when we put it [in the Riverland], the combination of the soil and the heat made it grow like crazy. "Cyprus and most of the eastern Mediterranean is very limestone-based soil, so it looks very similar to the Riverland." Yianni Koutouzis is one of two growers in Australia trialling Xynisteri. (ABC Riverland: Amelia Walters) Dr Copper noted some Australian wine regions grow cooler-climate varieties that traditionally require a lot of winter rainfall — conditions not always reflective of Australia. "In South Australia [they largely grow] shiraz, cabernet, chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and pinot gris, and they're all French varieties," he said. The future growing season temperature for some parts of South Australia is projected to increase by almost two degrees Celsius by 2070. It is something principal scientist in climate applications with the South Australian Research and Development Institute (SARDI) Dr Peter Hayman has been analysing for decades. "There's a bit of a headwind of it being a little bit warmer, which means the grapes will grow quicker and we will use a bit more water," he said. Dr Peter Hayman says the biggest asset we have in Australia is not the climate record, but the experience of farmers. (ABC Riverland: Amelia Walters) Prior to the Millennium Drought, Dr Hayman said perennial horticulture crops (those that live for more than two years) were considered "fairly drought-proof", as they had reliable water and a fixed allocation. "We came to realise nothing is more vulnerable to shortages of water than perennial horticulture because it needs water all the time, unlike annual horticulture, where you can pull back and plant less area," he said. Dr Peter Hayman says there are many complexities and many solutions to t

Ancient drought resistant winegrape instilling hope for struggling farmers

Key takeaways

Also covered by

Ancient drought resistant winegrape instilling hope for struggling farmers

Key takeaways

Also covered by

More in international