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Country diary: Taking the tough route to a hilltop view | Eben Muse
environment

Country diary: Taking the tough route to a hilltop view | Eben Muse

The Guardian Environment · May 13, 2026, 4:30 AM

Why this matters: environmental and climate reporting with long-term consequences.

Preseli Hills, Pembrokeshire: Bouldering on volcanic rock is hard on the hands, and I have no established path to work with, but it’ll be worth it I’ve been eyeing up this jagged rock edge all week. From my home away from home, I can see it from the windows, looming darkly on the brow of the hill. The storms of the last few days have passed, lingering only as a fierce wind that should dry the rock nicely.I’ve never been to Carn Ffoi before, but I’ve always wanted to explore those broken tors that dot the hills of Carningli Common. Below them, the sandy Trefdraeth bay opens its arms to the Irish sea and its changing tempers, and the gorse, still singed from last year’s fires, gives way to scrub and close-cropped grass. The view of the endless, rugged coast will be special. Continue reading...

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